Portugal! First stop, Castro Marim
29th January 2020, bom dia, Portugal!
Having admired the bridge spanning the Guadiana from Ayemonte, it was a little bit of an anticlimax that it was quite foggy as we crossed over!
Still, the sun was shining by the time we reached the other side. It was at this exact spot that we drove past a sign telling new arrivals into Portugal to pull aside to get set up with the toll payment system. We were totally oblivious to this and it caused us a fair bit of hassle later on, trying to pay retrospectively, with our foreign-registered vehicle. Note to self: next time, pull in and register!
Our first port of call after crossing the border was the small town of Castro Marim. Of course, due to proximity, this town shares much of the same history as Andalucía, and has contemporary physical features in common such as flamingos and the sea-salt harvesting industry.
Inhabited since the time of the Phoenicians, Castro Marim was an important trading port through the ages, with goods from the Mediterranean arriving here and then being traded throughout the Iberian peninsula.
We didn’t fancy staying the night because of lack of facilities for motorhomes, just a large muddy car park packed with motorhomes. When we started out on our trip, we thought we’d meet the occasional MH at this time of year, but winter is peak time for MH travellers in sunny Andalucía and even more so in the Algarve!
Once we walked into this small town, escaping the MH convoy, we were happily surprised by a very picturesque old town. Like much of the south coast of the Iberian peninsula, Castro Marim has seen a steady flow of visitors; typically, in order, Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians BC; and later the Romans, Visigoths and the Moorish occupation lasting 700 years.
Castro Marim medieval town square
Noticeable differences in house style and ground paving, immediately after crossing over from Spain to Portugal:
An unusual feature! Receptacle for cigarette butts:
After the Portuguese Reconquista, Castro Marim’s greatest landmark, its castle, was reinforced into its current form from 1277. Initially managed by the Knights Templar until their power and wealth fell foul to popish envy, it was taken over by the Order of Christ.
Inside the castle gate:
Inside the castle gates, the 14th century church 
Saul’s Game of Thrones error 
view over the valley from outside the castle gate 
During August, Castro Marim hosts a week-long medieval festival in the castle, featuring horseback tournaments, live music and dance, an exhibition of torture instruments, a medieval market and a medieval banquet.
After a nice afternoon in Castro Marim, we drove west looking for a good place to stop, soon discovering that Portuguese motorhome stopping points are extremely busy at this time of year – some full for the entire season, with enormous vans from France, Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium, mostly retired people who set up camp here in the one spot for several months over the winter.
If you think of hitting the road in search of an alternative way of life, the Algarve certainly puts paid to any sense that you are taking the road less travelled!
We arrived that evening at beautiful Tavira, and spent the next 11 days there.